Summary

A dripping tap is not merely an annoyance — a drip every second wastes approximately 5,000 litres per year. Scaled across a property with multiple dripping taps, the annual water and energy waste is significant. Under the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, a water fitting must not cause waste of water; a dripping tap is technically a regulatory infringement, though enforcement action against homeowners is extremely rare.

The diagnosis is straightforward once you understand the three main tap types in UK domestic plumbing: traditional pillar taps (quarter-turn or full-turn with washers), ceramic disc cartridge taps (quarter-turn with ceramic discs), and monobloc mixer taps (incorporating either a cartridge or two ceramic discs). Each type fails differently and requires different repair techniques.

The most common mistake is replacing a washer without inspecting the seat. If the brass seat is scored or pitted — often caused by the tap being operated with grit in the supply, or by years of wear — a new washer will drip within weeks. A £15 tap re-seating tool used once is a better investment than repeatedly replacing washers. Seat inserts (nylon or brass) provide a simple alternative to re-seating where the damage is severe.

Key Facts

  • Water waste — a 1-drip-per-second leak wastes approximately 30 litres per day (10,950 litres per year)
  • Traditional tap washers — typically 3/4 inch (19mm) or 1/2 inch (12.5mm) diameter; flat rubber or synthetic rubber; cost pennies and should be replaced with fibre or EPDM washers (not cheap rubber)
  • Ceramic disc cartridges — cannot be repaired; the entire cartridge must be replaced; cost £5–£40 depending on brand
  • O-rings on spindle — typically 3mm or 4mm section; deteriorate over 10–15 years; easy to replace with plumber's grease applied on assembly
  • Gland packing — older taps (pre-1980s) use soft gland packing (PTFE tape or graphite yarn) rather than O-rings; can be topped up via the gland nut
  • Tap seat — the machined brass face in the tap body against which the washer seals; scored seats prevent a watertight seal even with new washers
  • Re-seating tool — a tap re-seating tool (tap reseater) cuts a fresh flat face on the seat; typically £20–£40 and reusable
  • Seat inserts — nylon or brass seat inserts press into the damaged seat, providing a new sealing surface; a faster alternative to re-seating
  • Isolation — always isolate at the service valve under the sink before opening the tap; confirm isolation by opening the tap to relieve pressure
  • Hot vs cold drip — a dripping hot tap wastes both water and energy; at typical boiler fuel costs, a dripping hot tap adds £15–£30/year to energy bills
  • Monobloc mixer cartridges — cartridges are brand-specific; write down the brand, model, and measure the cartridge dimensions before ordering
  • Quarter-turn ceramic disc taps — the ceramic discs can crack if tightened excessively; symptom is tap that leaks when open and closed

Quick Reference Table

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Symptom Tap Type Likely Cause Repair
Drip from spout when closed Traditional (full-turn) Worn tap washer Replace washer (and check seat)
Drip from spout when closed Quarter-turn Failed ceramic disc cartridge Replace cartridge
Drip from spout when closed Monobloc mixer Worn cartridge or ceramic disc Replace cartridge
Drip from around spindle Any type Worn O-ring or gland packing Replace O-ring or re-pack gland
Drip from base of spout Mixer tap Worn O-ring on swivel spout Replace O-ring(s) on spout body
New washer — still drips Traditional Damaged seat Re-seat or fit seat insert
Drip only when tap is open Quarter-turn Cracked ceramic disc Replace cartridge
Weeping from union under tap Any Corroded or cross-threaded union Replace or re-cut thread

Detailed Guidance

Decision Tree

DRIPPING TAP — START HERE
         |
         v
WHERE is the drip coming from?
         |
    -----+-----+------
    |          |      |
    v          v      v
SPOUT        BODY   UNDER SINK
(when        (spindle (connections)
closed)      area)
    |          |      |
    v          v      v
Go to      O-ring or  Check unions,
Section A  gland fault compression
           Section B  joints, flexi
                      hoses

==========================
SECTION A: DRIP FROM SPOUT
==========================
         |
         v
Is it a traditional full-turn tap or a quarter-turn?
         |
    -----+-----
    |           |
Full-turn    Quarter-turn
    |           |
    v           v
WASHER TYPE  CARTRIDGE TYPE
    |           |
    v           v
Isolate water   Isolate water
Remove headgear  Remove cartridge
Inspect washer  Inspect ceramic
Replace washer  discs -- replace
    |           cartridge
    v
Still drips?
    |
    v
Inspect seat
Scored/pitted?
    |
YES | NO
    |   \
    v    v
Re-seat  Check
or insert washer
        seating

==========================
SECTION B: SPINDLE DRIP
==========================
         |
         v
Is there a gland nut at the top of the tap body?
         |
    YES  |  NO
         |   \
         v    v
Check gland   Check O-ring on
packing --    spindle
tighten nut   Replace O-ring
first, then
re-pack with
PTFE if needed

Replacing a Traditional Tap Washer

Tools needed: adjustable spanner, slot screwdriver, circlip pliers (sometimes), replacement washer

  1. Turn off the service valve under the sink (slot screwdriver, quarter turn). Open the tap to relieve pressure and confirm water stops flowing.
  2. Prise off the decorative cover on top of the tap handle (usually snaps off). Remove the retaining screw and lift off the handle.
  3. Using the adjustable spanner, unscrew the headgear (the large hexagonal nut). Wind out the entire headgear assembly.
  4. At the base of the headgear, you will find the jumper (a small post) with the washer on the end. The washer is held by a small nut or simply a press fit.
  5. If a nut retains the washer, use circlip pliers or a small spanner to remove it. Lift off the old washer.
  6. Fit the new washer — use a fibre or EPDM washer, not a cheap rubber one. If the washer has a nut, tighten it firmly.
  7. Before re-assembling, shine a torch into the tap body and inspect the seat. It should be a smooth, flat brass ring. Any scoring or pitting requires re-seating.
  8. Reassemble in reverse order. Do not overtighten the headgear — finger tight plus one quarter turn is sufficient.
  9. Open the service valve slowly. Check for leaks at the headgear and confirm the drip has stopped.

Replacing a Ceramic Disc Cartridge

Ceramic disc cartridges are used in quarter-turn taps and many modern mixer taps. The ceramic discs are precision-ground and cannot be repaired — replacement is the only option.

  1. Isolate the supply. Open the tap to relieve pressure.
  2. Remove the handle (usually a grub screw on the side or under a decorative cap).
  3. The cartridge is visible once the handle is removed. It may be retained by a shroud (decorative sleeve) and a retaining nut or clip.
  4. Remove the retaining nut and pull the cartridge out. Note the orientation — the cartridge has a flat or shaped base that locates in one direction.
  5. Take the old cartridge to a plumbing merchant or photograph it with a coin for scale. Match by dimensions: cartridge diameter (typically 25mm or 35mm for mixer taps), height, and spindle shape.
  6. Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation. Hand-tighten the retaining nut.
  7. Reassemble and test. Quarter-turn taps should turn smoothly; resistance indicates the cartridge is not seated correctly.

Diagnosing and Repairing a Scored Seat

A scored tap seat is identified when:

  • A new washer seals perfectly on assembly but the tap drips within days or weeks
  • The seat visibly shows radial scratches or pitting when inspected with a torch
  • The washer shows an uneven impression after removal

Re-seating procedure:

  1. Remove the headgear completely as above.
  2. Insert the tap re-seating tool into the tap body. The tool has a cutter that is guided by the tap body threads.
  3. Tighten the guide adapter into the threads, then turn the cutter handle clockwise. The cutter removes a thin layer of brass from the seat, creating a fresh flat surface.
  4. Remove swarf with a damp cloth wrapped on a rod — do not allow metal filings into the supply.
  5. Fit a new washer and reassemble.

Seat insert alternative: Seat inserts (nylon) are available for common tap sizes. The insert is pressed or tapped into the damaged seat with a soft mallet. The flat nylon face provides a new sealing surface. This is faster than re-seating and does not require a specialist tool, but is less durable than a properly re-cut brass seat.

Mixer Tap Cartridge Replacement

Monobloc mixer taps use a single cartridge with both hot and cold ceramic discs, or a separate cartridge per hot and cold. The cartridge size is brand-specific.

Common cartridge sizes:

  • 25mm cartridge: most smaller single-hole mixer taps
  • 35mm cartridge: standard kitchen mixer taps
  • 40mm cartridge: some basin and bath/shower mixers

The brand is usually stamped on the tap body or visible on the cartridge itself. Without a brand, measure the cartridge diameter and height precisely. Universal replacement cartridges exist for some sizes but fit quality varies.

For bath/shower mixer cartridges — particularly thermostatic cartridges — the cartridge may be supplied with a calibration procedure. Follow manufacturer instructions for setting the maximum temperature stop.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I turn off the water to the tap?

Look for the service valve on the supply pipe immediately under the sink or basin. It has a slot-head screw: turn it 90 degrees (quarter turn) so the slot is across the pipe. If there is no service valve, turn off at the main stopcock (typically under the kitchen sink, in an airing cupboard, or under the stairs). After working, check for leaks and confirm isolation valve is fully open before leaving.

My tap is still dripping after replacing the washer. What now?

Check the seat as described above. If the seat looks undamaged, check that the washer is the correct size and seated flat. A washer that is too small will not cover the seat; one that is too large will be forced out of position. Also check the jumper (the post the washer sits on) is not cracked or worn.

Can I replace a washer-type tap with a ceramic disc type?

Yes, if you replace the entire headgear. Compatible replacement headgears with ceramic disc cartridges are available for many traditional tap body sizes. This converts a full-turn tap to quarter-turn operation and eliminates washer replacement indefinitely. Match the headgear thread size (typically 1/2 inch BSP) and spindle height.

The tap handle is very stiff even after the cartridge is replaced — why?

Either the cartridge is not correctly seated (remove and re-seat), the retaining nut is too tight, or there is debris between the cartridge and body. Ceramic disc cartridges should turn with finger pressure only. Excessive force will crack the ceramic discs and cause immediate leakage.

Is a dripping tap covered by landlord maintenance obligations?

Yes. A landlord has a duty under the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985 (Section 11) to maintain the structure and installations for the supply of water. A dripping tap that cannot be repaired by the tenant (e.g., requires a cartridge or specialist tool) is a landlord responsibility. Tenants should report it in writing to create a paper trail.

Regulations & Standards

  • Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 — Regulation 3 prohibits water fittings that cause waste of water; a dripping tap is technically non-compliant

  • BS 1010:1973 — draw-off taps and stopvalves (superseded but referenced for older fittings)

  • BS EN 817:2008 — sanitary tapware; mechanical mixing valves

  • Landlord and Tenant Act 1985, Section 11 — landlord's obligation to maintain installations for water supply

  • Water Regulations Advisory Scheme (WRAS) — water fitting requirements and approved products

  • CIPHE: Plumbing guidance — Chartered Institute of Plumbing and Heating Engineering guidance

  • Waterwise: Water saving — drip rate calculator and water waste estimates

  • compression fittings — compression fitting assembly and leak prevention

  • water regulations — Water Regulations requirements for plumbing fittings

  • noisy pipes — water hammer and pipe noise diagnosis

  • bathroom refit — full bathroom refit scope including tap replacement